Swapping the Series IV/V Rear Subframe

So you say you hear a clunking noinse coming from the rear end of your second gen? More often than not, it's a broken differential mount. But most of the time, it's the removable front differential mount - the rubber isolator usually shears or seperates from one side. However, if you're really lucky like me, you'll find you've managed to break the front differential mounting tab on the subframe!

Step 1: Get a new differential mount - if you so desire, get the competition part, which has no counterweight and stiffer rubber isolator. I was in a rush so I had my supplier send what ever they had available, which was the stock one. While you've got the car in the air, inspect the mounting tab on the subframe. Make sure it doesn't look like this.	Hmm, this doesn't look good
	Yep, time for Plan B
Step 2: Remove the rear subframe and differential as a unit. The most fun is uncrimping and removing the half-shaft nuts and knock them out of the rear hubs. Mark the position and disconnect the driveshaft from the differential. Using two jacks, Support the differential with one and the subframe with the other. Once everything is unbolted, lower them both at the same time.	Piece of cake!
	The jacks help to move around
Step 3: Examine the subframe - this break does not look repairable. According to MazdaComp, this failure is not uncommon on race cars, so they offer a reinforced subframe but I doubt I could afford one.	How did I do this?
From the rust, it appears that the tear began a while ago, then suddenly failed. Possibly while exitting a Taco Bell parking lot. No, that was the drive shaft.	Don't try this at home
Interestingly, note that the subframe welds seems to have held well.	There's a subframe under the dirt
	The pieces fit together
Step 4: Get another subframe. You could buy a new one but I found a perfectly usable one at a self-service junk yard. I've found that the key to easily pulling one at a yard is to bring an air impact wrench and a 5 gallon air tank (very cheap at Harbor Freight). While it's still fresh, I took the time to clean the new subframe. Check all the ball joints on the lateral links - swap in links with good joints because it will never be easier.	The new rear subframe
Step 5: While you're at it, go ahead and replace all those old bushings. I put in a set of Energy Suspension urathane bushings, but I missed the opportunity to replace the old DTSS bushings with the "Toe Eliminator" bushings. While I was in the neighborhood, I also replaced the stock sway bar end links with adjustable end links.	New orange bushings
Step 6: To quote Mazda: "Assemble in the reverse order of disassembly."